Artificial filaments have smooth surface and luster naturally because they are pulled out through a narrow nozzle. There is a processing called cire that increases the luster. For DuPont’s Trilobal, the shape of the fiber’s cross section is changed to a triangle to maximize the luster. Spark and bright yarn are other names for Trilobal. These days, the shiny artificial filaments are considered as cheap looking and losing popularity. Instead, full dull filaments made by adding dioxide titanium are in demand.
Ironically, cotton fibers made to look shiny like artificial filaments is very expensive. Untreated cotton has tiny fibers on its surface which prevent light reflection. There are many treatments to make shiny cotton fibers but they are quite complicated. Silket is one of these method used for making luster in cotton fibers for knitted fabrics. Cotton is made to look like silk through singeing, the process where tiny fibers on the surface of the fibers are burned away. The treatment is limited to cotton yarns in CM4’s, which are fine and expensive yarns that have been combed at least three times.
Mercerizing is another method that gives luster to cotton fibers. The crushed empty space inside the fiber called lumen is blown up, tightening and straightening the surface of the fiber. The expanded cotton has a smooth and shiny surface. Both silket and mercerizing methods damage the yarns. Making garment out of the damaged yarns can cause serious problems in tear strength.
Compact cotton yarn (CCY) overcomes these problems of silket and mercerizing. The strength of cotton fibers increases up to 20% when they are spun in CCY. Air is applied during the twisting process of spinning to force tiny fibers inward and make the surface of fiber smooth. CCY is thicker and voluminous. The weaving process is also improved by reducing the amount of starch required. Dyeing fabrics made of CCY results bright and even color. The only drawback of CCY is its high price. CCY shirts made in China cost around $3.00 to $4.00.
Showing posts with label cotton. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cotton. Show all posts
2008-06-02
Organic Cotton
After searching the mall for 3 hours, you finally find the perfect T-shirt. You check out its content label and find it marked 100% Cotton. What does this mean to you? You would probably like the T-shirt more because cotton means something soft, comfortable, and, mo st of all, natural.
Cotton originates from India dating back some 5,000 years. Now about 50% of the world’s garments are made in cotton. We feel easy and comfortable wearing cotton because it is made from a natural substance found in plants-cellulose. It has other excellent properties: white color, soft touch, and superior absorbency.
Behind this goodness, however, lies the dark side of cotton farming. Since growing cotton exhausts soil’s nutrients, a lot of chemical fertilizer is used. This type of unnatural nurturing weakens plants against harmful insects. Therefore, pesticides become necessary. Popular demand for cotton textiles has increased the use of pesticide. Cotton is now the most pesticide-dependent crop in the world, accounting for 25% of all pesticide use.
So is your favorite cotton T-shirt full of pesticide? Of course not! Harmful substances are removed and clothes are tested before they are placed in stores. According to FITI, a testing organization, cotton fabric contains less than 0.1% of pesticide. Dye solutions for cotton are also made safe by removing formalin and azo.
Therefore, it is not the degree of safety that organic and non-organic cotton differ in because both have to have almost 0% pesticide to be sold. The true purpose of organic cotton is to save environment. Every year in the United States, 25 million kilograms of pesticide is used. This is polluting water and earth. In order grow organic cotton, not a drop of pesticide should touch the ground for 3 years and natural fertilizers have to be used.
It has been more than 15 years since organic cotton farming started. Although the present amount of demand for organic cotton is only 10% of total due to its high price, it is gradually increasing with more concerns about environment.
Cotton originates from India dating back some 5,000 years. Now about 50% of the world’s garments are made in cotton. We feel easy and comfortable wearing cotton because it is made from a natural substance found in plants-cellulose. It has other excellent properties: white color, soft touch, and superior absorbency.
Behind this goodness, however, lies the dark side of cotton farming. Since growing cotton exhausts soil’s nutrients, a lot of chemical fertilizer is used. This type of unnatural nurturing weakens plants against harmful insects. Therefore, pesticides become necessary. Popular demand for cotton textiles has increased the use of pesticide. Cotton is now the most pesticide-dependent crop in the world, accounting for 25% of all pesticide use.
So is your favorite cotton T-shirt full of pesticide? Of course not! Harmful substances are removed and clothes are tested before they are placed in stores. According to FITI, a testing organization, cotton fabric contains less than 0.1% of pesticide. Dye solutions for cotton are also made safe by removing formalin and azo.
Therefore, it is not the degree of safety that organic and non-organic cotton differ in because both have to have almost 0% pesticide to be sold. The true purpose of organic cotton is to save environment. Every year in the United States, 25 million kilograms of pesticide is used. This is polluting water and earth. In order grow organic cotton, not a drop of pesticide should touch the ground for 3 years and natural fertilizers have to be used.
It has been more than 15 years since organic cotton farming started. Although the present amount of demand for organic cotton is only 10% of total due to its high price, it is gradually increasing with more concerns about environment.
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